Featuring a strange 70s hotel, postwar industrial bleak, an Arctic menagerie, and the Northern Lights at last
In the wake of the US election result, visiting somewhere as bleak as the Arctic town of Bodø provided a strange catharsis
Solo travel isn't always a celebration of independence and exploration. Sometimes it's a two-day demonstration of Murphy's Law, in which a hostel is comically underwhelming, my internal compass goes haywire, and almost everything is closed
Ship's log of the journey from Bergen to Trondheim, aboard Norway's marine postal service-cum-cruise line
In which fjords are navigated, composers are visited and no fish are harmed.
Featuring fish soup, flatbreads, Henrik Ibsen and ... Irish folk music
The single step that started the journey of a lifetime (so far)