Bright lights, big city: I reach Uppsala during a light festival, and finally get to play some Scandinavian folk music
In Kiruna in November, there's little to do other than tour the restaurants and cafés, and play in the snow. But it's still a little bit magical
Featuring a strange 70s hotel, postwar industrial bleak, an Arctic menagerie, and the Northern Lights at last
In the wake of the US election result, visiting somewhere as bleak as the Arctic town of Bodø provided a strange catharsis
Solo travel isn't always a celebration of independence and exploration. Sometimes it's a two-day demonstration of Murphy's Law, in which a hostel is comically underwhelming, my internal compass goes haywire, and almost everything is closed
Ship's log of the journey from Bergen to Trondheim, aboard Norway's marine postal service-cum-cruise line
In which fjords are navigated, composers are visited and no fish are harmed.