Bright lights, big city: I reach Uppsala during a light festival, and finally get to play some Scandinavian folk music
Alice in Scandinavia II.ii: Uppsala
Travel
Alice in Scandinavia II.i: Kiruna
In Kiruna in November, there's little to do other than tour the restaurants and cafés, and play in the snow. But it's still a little bit magical
Alice in Scandinavia I.vi: Narvik
Featuring a strange 70s hotel, postwar industrial bleak, an Arctic menagerie, and the Northern Lights at last
Alice in Scandinavia I.v: Bodø
In the wake of the US election result, visiting somewhere as bleak as the Arctic town of Bodø provided a strange catharsis
Alice in Scandinavia I.iv: Trondheim
Solo travel isn't always a celebration of independence and exploration. Sometimes it's a two-day demonstration of Murphy's Law, in which a hostel is comically underwhelming, my internal compass goes haywire, and almost everything is closed
Alice in Scandinavia I.iii: Hurtigruten
Ship's log of the journey from Bergen to Trondheim, aboard Norway's marine postal service-cum-cruise line
Alice in Scandinavia I.ii: Bergen
In which fjords are navigated, composers are visited and no fish are harmed.
