My final stop in the capital of Finnish Lapland is the most surreal of all: three hours of daylight and mountainous heaps of snow. But at the end of six weeks, there's time for one final treat
Alice in Scandinavia III.iv: Rovaniemi
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Alice in Scandinavia III.iii: Tampere
On Finnish Independence Day, I visit Finland's answer to Manchester: a place of frozen rapids, vast lakes and the world's highest glacial ridge
Alice in Scandinavia III.ii: Helsinki
Nowhere on my trip has the jostling between city and nature been more apparent than the Finnish capital, where wildly quirky buildings shoulder against frost-blasted rock faces
Alice in Scandinavia III.i: Turku
After the worst journey of the entire trip, Finland's Christmas City thoroughly redeems itself with its waterways, markets and knitted glögi cosies
Alice in Scandinavia II.v: Malmö
The city of The Bridge makes good on its Scandi-noir credentials... but there's plenty of hygge too
Alice in Scandinavia II.iv: Gothenburg
Sweden's second-largest city proves to be an eclectic jumble of picture-postcard side streets, rusting waterfronts and a bleak island wilderness
Alice in Scandinavia II.iii: Stockholm
A long weekend in the Swedish capital takes in Christmas markets, glögg, more folk music, and the biggest ship that never sailed
Alice in Scandinavia II.ii: Uppsala
Bright lights, big city: I reach Uppsala during a light festival, and finally get to play some Scandinavian folk music
Alice in Scandinavia II.i: Kiruna
In Kiruna in November, there's little to do other than tour the restaurants and cafés, and play in the snow. But it's still a little bit magical
Alice in Scandinavia I.vi: Narvik
Featuring a strange 70s hotel, postwar industrial bleak, an Arctic menagerie, and the Northern Lights at last
