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Alice in Scandinavia III.iv: Rovaniemi

Dec 9, 2017Dec 10, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 1 Comment

My final stop in the capital of Finnish Lapland is the most surreal of all: three hours of daylight and mountainous heaps of snow. But at the end of six weeks, there's time for one final treat

Alice in Scandinavia III.iii: Tampere

Dec 6, 2017Dec 9, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 2 Comments

On Finnish Independence Day, I visit Finland's answer to Manchester: a place of frozen rapids, vast lakes and the world's highest glacial ridge

Alice in Scandinavia III.ii: Helsinki

Dec 1, 2017Dec 6, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 2 Comments

Nowhere on my trip has the jostling between city and nature been more apparent than the Finnish capital, where wildly quirky buildings shoulder against frost-blasted rock faces

Alice in Scandinavia III.i: Turku

Nov 16, 2017Dec 6, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 1 Comment

After the worst journey of the entire trip, Finland's Christmas City thoroughly redeems itself with its waterways, markets and knitted glögi cosies

Alice in Scandinavia II.v: Malmö

Oct 8, 2017Oct 8, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 2 Comments

The city of The Bridge makes good on its Scandi-noir credentials... but there's plenty of hygge too

Alice in Scandinavia II.iv: Gothenburg

Sep 23, 2017Oct 8, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 4 Comments

Sweden's second-largest city proves to be an eclectic jumble of picture-postcard side streets, rusting waterfronts and a bleak island wilderness

Alice in Scandinavia II.iii: Stockholm

Sep 10, 2017Sep 27, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 2 Comments

A long weekend in the Swedish capital takes in Christmas markets, glögg, more folk music, and the biggest ship that never sailed

Alice in Scandinavia II.ii: Uppsala

Jul 28, 2017Sep 27, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 2 Comments

Bright lights, big city: I reach Uppsala during a light festival, and finally get to play some Scandinavian folk music

Alice in Scandinavia II.i: Kiruna

Jul 18, 2017Sep 27, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 5 Comments

In Kiruna in November, there's little to do other than tour the restaurants and cafés, and play in the snow. But it's still a little bit magical

Alice in Scandinavia I.vi: Narvik

May 24, 2017Sep 27, 2017 ~ Glaukopis ~ 2 Comments

Featuring a strange 70s hotel, postwar industrial bleak, an Arctic menagerie, and the Northern Lights at last

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Recent Posts

  • Review | The Master and Margarita – Mikhail Bulgakov (trn. Burgin & O’Connor) Jan 3, 2018
  • Alice in Scandinavia III.iv: Rovaniemi Dec 9, 2017
  • Alice in Scandinavia III.iii: Tampere Dec 6, 2017
  • Alice in Scandinavia III.ii: Helsinki Dec 1, 2017
  • Alice in Scandinavia III.i: Turku Nov 16, 2017

About me

I'm a geographically-impaired Londoner working on a Classics PhD. I have an intermittent writing habit, a serious tea habit and a lot of knitting needles. When I'm not re-re-redrafting fantasy stories or making toy owls, I tend to be playing folk music somewhere questionable.

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